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Reebok Teams With Iconic House of Ninja for New Pride Collection Video

Reebok Teams with Iconic House of Ninja For New Pride Collection Video

“Fierceness isn’t born. It’s made.”

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All 5 Episodes of ‘Halston’ Drop Today; Updates, Issues, and Insights on the Glittering Rise – and Notorious Fall – of a Fashion Icon

Halston

‘Halston’ on Netflix Updates

Family and Archive call series ‘inaccurate’; Offer no examples.
The Halston family and archives issued press release saying they were “not consulted on the upcoming Netflix series involving an inaccurate, fictionalized account of famed fashion designer, “Halston.

Ewan McGregor, Director Daniel Minahan Team On Netflix Miniseries “Halston,” Address Criticism
“We were so meticulous,” McGregor said. “Dan Minahan has been researching this, wanting to make this for more than 20 years” — SHOOT

CNN Review “‘Citizen Kane,’ only with more sex, better clothes and disco. Yet what really defines this style-over-substance miniseries, other than Ewan McGregor’s no-holds-barred performance, are its insights regarding the tension between art and commerce.”

Maureen Dowd Interviews Ewan McGregor About Playing Halston — NYTimes

Work in Film: Ewan McGregor, an Eternal Sexpot, Turned 50 This Week. — Towleroad

Halston: The glittering rise – and spectacular fall – of a fashion icon

Halston with the Halstonettes – a group of models who were part of his entourage – at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City in 1980.
Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images

Jennifer Gordon, Iowa State University and Sara Marcketti, Iowa State University

Walk into any department store, and you’ll get a sense of the powerful brands built by high-end American designers: Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan. They created veritable fashion empires by leveraging their names to create lower-priced lines and sign profitable licensing agreements.

But before them all, there was Roy Halston Frowick – better known by the singular appellation Halston.

The subject of an eponymous Netflix miniseries starring Ewan McGregor, Halston became one of the earliest American designers to extend his brand to multiple price points. In doing so, he made designs that were normally out of reach for everyday Americans available to the masses.

But as fashion historians, we’ll often tell Halston’s story as a cautionary one. Though he made style seem effortless, his relationship with the fashion industry was anything but uncomplicated.

Attuned to the mood

A born-and-bred Midwesterner, Halston found early success in hat design working as a custom milliner for Bergdorf Goodman. Halston soon became known as a trendsetter, and, in a notable triumph for the young designer, first lady Jacqueline Kennedy wore one of Halston’s signature pillbox hats at her husband’s inauguration.

Jackie Kennedy rides in a car alongside John F. Kennedy.
First lady Jacqueline Kennedy donned one of Halston’s iconic pillbox hats on Inauguration Day in 1961.
Bettmann/Getty Images

Later in the 1960s, Halston made the foray into dress design. His success was equal parts talent and serendipity, and he once described his approach as “editing the mood of what’s happening.”

A mannequin dressed in a tan Halston shirtdress.
A tan Ultrasuede Halston shirtdress from 1972.
Museum at FIT/Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA

Although overt simplicity may seem incongruous with grandeur, Halston garments were both understated and luxurious.

Halston’s body-skimming silk chiffon caftans, jersey wraparound dresses and long cashmere sweaters were often constructed using just one piece of fabric. They covered the body fully, but through careful manipulation of the fabric – wrapping, draping and twisting – Halston’s pieces were sensuous and flattering.

Halston was even able to turn Ultrasuede – a soft, synthetic, machine-washable faux suede – into a status symbol, molding it into elegant shirtdresses and coats. These became popular despite – or maybe because of – their utter plainness. His garments were fitting for the 1970s, when a shaky economy made flagrant displays of wealth unseemly.

A red dress on a mannequin.
A silk Halston evening dress, designed in the mid-1970s.
Chicago History Museum/Getty Images

Yet the designer’s social life was the opposite of understated. In fact, the image of fashion design as a glamorous and exciting profession owes much to Halston. During his heyday, he was at “the top of the fashion show-biz heap,” as Women’s Wear Daily publisher John Fairchild once wrote.

At the legendary Studio 54, he mingled with Bianca Jagger and Andy Warhol. The world-famous disco club became both a showroom for Halston’s designs and a stage for the man himself, and Halston was often accompanied by an entourage of beautiful women known as “the Halstonettes.”

Halston the businessman

As his stature grew, Halston always looked for ways to expand his fashion empire.

Early in his career, he experimented with what’s known as “brand diffusion” – which is companies’ use of the same brand name on items at varying price points.

His high-end line was Halston Ltd., a made-to-order, ready-to-wear business. Located on New York City’s Madison Avenue, it catered to an exclusive list of private clientele that included film and television stars like Lauren Bacall, Greta Garbo, Liza Minelli and Elizabeth Taylor.

Meanwhile, the Halston Originals boutique sold dresses to department stores across the country, with prices ranging from US$150 to over $1,000. And with Halston International, the designer created “component” knit pieces – not outfits, but singular garments, turtlenecks, sweater sets, shirts and coats – that consumers could mix and match to their delight.

Halston kisses Bianca Jagger on the cheek behind her birthday cake.
Bianca Jagger and Halston during Jagger’s birthday party at Studio 54.
Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images

After the business conglomerate Norton Simon Inc. acquired the Halston businesses in 1973, Halston remained lead designer of his many collections. He worked at a frenetic pace, creating all of the uniforms for the winter and summer 1976 U.S. Olympic athletes and making costumes for Martha Graham’s ballet production “Lucifer.” Products bearing his name included perfumes, luggage, home linens, coats, rainwear and even wigs. By 1983, Halston Enterprises was generating an estimated $150 million in annual sales.

Perhaps emboldened by his success or motivated by his heartland roots, Halston signed with JCPenney in 1983 for the creation of an exclusive line that was, as he put it, “for the American people.”

With items priced from $24 to $200, the “III line” marked a new era in fashion and retailing.

A man looks at two stylishly dressed women walking by.
The Halston III line for JCPenney was the first by a high-end American fashion designer licensing his name.
barbiescanner/flickr

While high-end fashion designer Pierre Cardin pioneered this form of licensing in Europe, the project of pairing a high-fashion designer with a mass merchandiser best known for selling Levi’s, hardware and household goods was unusual in the United States. While Halston contended it was immensely successful, claiming it generated $1 billion in sales, JCPenney’s executives were less enthusiastic. By the mid-1980s, industry insiders were suggesting that the garments were not selling as well as expected.

The JCPenney’s deal ultimately proved to be damaging for Halston. Wary high-end retailers, including his early employer, Bergdorf Goodman, were fearful that the prestige of the Halston name was sullied by its presence on the racks of a mass-market merchandiser. Bergdorf Goodman eventually dropped his line altogether.

Meanwhile, Halston’s growing reputation of excessive spending and erratic behavior increasingly left his brand to the decisions of businessmen and creative control to other parties. Halston was relegated to the sidelines, and his corporate deals effectively cost him the right to his own name.

In 1988, Halston was diagnosed with AIDS. He lived out of the public eye until his death in 1990.

Others follow Halston’s lead

Despite its eventual failure, Halston’s pairing with JCPenney was truly ahead of its time.

Citing the importance of creating practical, easy-care leisurewear for working women and young mothers, Halston tried to offer a fashionable wardrobe at reasonable prices that nearly everyone could afford.

Contemporaries such as Anne Klein, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Kenzo Takada would immediately try out similar diffusion lines. All pulled it off without suffering the extraordinary professional cost that Halston endured.

These designers’ corporate and creative decisions were arguably more tightly controlled than Halston’s devil-may-care diffusion. Acquisitions of these companies by larger conglomerates occurred much later than Halston’s, often decades into the brand’s existence. Perhaps this gave additional time for these brands to arrive at a more singular vision.

Maintaining a consistent direction over such a diverse array of lines proved unfeasible for Halston, and something was lost along the way: the cachet and the allure that made a Halston a Halston.

Halston’s successes and ultimate downfall have provided a cautious inspiration. Isaac Mizrahi’s 2003 collaboration with Target – 20 years after Halston’s pairing with JCPenney – became a boon for both parties.

It was not, however, without trepidation. In 2019, Mizrahi reminisced that the partnership “was a very scary thing. Halston was my idol … and he had failed.”

[Get the best of The Conversation, every weekend. Sign up for our weekly newsletter.]

Relationships between designers and retailers are now commonplace in a climate where the most fashionable and visible of women freely mix and match mass market and luxury items, and designers deftly jump between discount retail and the runway.

Halston’s brand lives on, but resuscitating it has been a long process. Fashion heavyweights Kevan Hall and Marios Schwab, as well as style figures Rachel Zoe and Sarah Jessica Parker, have lent their creativity and business acumen to the brand, with limited success.

With the release of Netflix’s “Halston,” a new revival is at hand: not of the line, but of the personality that for a comparatively brief – but glittering – moment, ruled the fashion world with devastating simplicity.

Jennifer Gordon, Lecturer of Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management, Iowa State University and Sara Marcketti, Professor of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management, Iowa State University

This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.

The Conversation

All 5 Episodes Drop today, May 14, 2021. The limited series HALSTON follows the legendary fashion designer (Ewan McGregor), as he leverages his single, invented name into a worldwide fashion empire that’s synonymous with luxury, sex, status and fame, literally defining the era he lives in, 1970’s and ‘80’s New York — until a hostile takeover forces him to battle for control of his most precious asset… the name Halston itself. The series is Executive Produced by Ryan Murphy, Ian Brennan, Alexis Martin Woodall, Daniel Minahan, Ewan McGregor, Christine Vachon and Pamela Koffler of Killer Films, Eric Kovtun and Sharr White. Minahan also serves as the series director.

Halston: Previously on Towleroad

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Matt Gaetz Twitter Keeps Giving, and Getting Zinged On News That His Buddy Will Plead Guilty and Help Prosecutors

 
Published by
Reuters
 
Matt Gaetz twitter

By Jan Wolfe and Mark Hosenball

WASHINGTON (Reuters) -A former Florida official central to the federal investigation into whether U.S. Representative Matt Gaetz committed sex trafficking of a minor will cooperate with investigators as part of a plea agreement, a court document submitted by prosecutors showed.

The former official, Joel Greenberg https://www.reuters.com/business/legal/friend-us-congressman-gaetz-expected-plead-guilty-sex-trafficking-case-court-2021-05-13, is set to plead guilty to crimes including sex-trafficking a minor – a relationship he described online as being a “sugar daddy” – and to introducing the minor to other adult men who engaged in sex acts with the minor in Greenberg’s presence, court papers show. The papers do not identify the other adult men.

According to the plea agreement, Greenberg will admit to spending more than $70,000 in 150 transactions to pay for sex with the minor and others, who were 18 or older, as well as to giving the minor and others the illegal drug Ecstasy.

A plea hearing for Greenberg, a former tax collector in Florida’s Seminole County, is scheduled for Monday in federal court in Orlando, Florida.

The plea deal marks a turning point in the sprawling federal investigation, which has roiled Florida politics and ensnared Gaetz, 39, one of former President Donald Trump’s staunchest defenders in Congress.

Investigators are seeking to determine whether Gaetz had sex with the same 17-year-old Greenberg was accused of trafficking, according to news reports and a law enforcement source who spoke with Reuters.

Gaetz has not been charged with any crimes and has repeatedly denied wrongdoing.

“Congressman Gaetz doesn’t seem to be named nor referenced in Mr. Greenberg’s plea,” said Harlan Hill, a Gaetz spokesman. “Congressman Gaetz has never had sex with a minor and has never paid for sex.”

Greenberg’s lawyer, Fritz Scheller, suggested to reporters last month that Greenberg cooperating with federal investigators could have implications for Gaetz.

“I’m sure Matt Gaetz is not feeling very comfortable today,” Scheller said in April, after a court hearing where prosecutors signaled a plea deal was imminent.

In a column published last month on the Washington Examiner website, Gaetz declared he had no plans to resign from Congress.

“There are exactly zero credible (or even non-credible) accusers willing to come forward by name and state on the public record that I behaved improperly toward them,” Gaetz wrote.

Representative Steve Scalise, the No. 2 House Republican, said last month that the party would take action against Gaetz if the Justice Department formally charges him.

(Reporting by Jan Wolfe and Mark Hosenball in WashingtonEditing by Bill Berkrot and Matthew Lewis)

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Matt Gaetz Twitter responses And Damning Old Tweets

ICYMI, a zinger from earlier in the week

Matt Gaetz Twitter Previously on Towleroad

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‘Two years ago I was so worried I’d be ostracized … or worse. Today my community elected me Mayor’ –World’s First Non-binary Mayor

non-binary mayor

non-binary mayor
Owen Hurcum, Mayor of Bangor, Wales

The Welsh town of Bangor formally seated 23-year-old Owen Hurcum as the world’s first out non-binary mayor on Monday, marking an internationally historic moment for non-binary people and communities.

“When I came out two years ago I was so worried I’d be ostracized by my community or worse. Today my community elected me Mayor of our great City. The youngest ever Mayor in Wales. The first ever openly Non-Binary Mayor of any city anywhere. Beyond humbled, Diolch Bangor,” Hurcum said Monday in a tweet accompanied by a photo of them wearing a traditional mayoral chain.

Though they have only lived in Bangor for five years, Hurcum, who identifies as genderqueer and agender, fell in love with the town and quickly jumped into its political scene. Hurcum was elected to their new position unanimously by the Bangor City Council last year after one year as the town’s deputy mayor. They served as a city councilor for four years prior to becoming deputy mayor.

“It is an enormous privilege to have been elected by my fellow City Council members to the office of Mayor of Bangor,” Hurcum told NBC News. “I don’t take this lightly and I will work as hard as I can in the role to give back everything to the City that has given me so much. I might only be 23 but I have a wealth of experience at local government and a fantastic team behind me so I know we are set up to face the challenges ahead.”

Much of Hurcum’s stated goals for their stint as mayor focus on making the Welsh town a destination for others and “celebrate the multi-cultural community that makes our city the greatness that it is.” But they also have made sure to provide a voice to trans, non-binary and other LGBTQ communities through their political representation.

Between their election as mayor and being seated this week, Hurcum launched a a run for Senedd, the Welsh Parliament, representing the Plaid Cymru party. But Hulcum withdrew from the race and the Plaid Cymru party in March, saying they “cannot in good conscious stand for a party that continues to platform those who promote transphobia.”

“I had hoped to remain and use my limited influence as Plaid’s only openly trans Senedd candidate to force the Party to tackle this matter head on,” Hurcum said in a statement. “I will always hold my principles above my party and, as stated, the hope and faith I had in Plaid changing for the better before the Senedd elections of this year have now been irreparably broken.”

That message and demand for equity and understanding is central to their upcoming book, Don’t Ask About My Genitals. The book posits itself as an introduction to the non-binary community wanting to learn more about it and “commentary on our lived experiences in a binary world.” Hurcum also tells their own story in the book as a wya to speak to “young genderqueer and non-binary people who might otherwise think they are all alone.” Don’t Ask Me About My Genitals is slated for an April 2022 release.

“The city means a lot to me and I feel so privileged that I have been entrusted to represent my community on a national and international stage,” Hurcum told North Wales Live. “Bangor has a lot to offer and I hope I can do a good job of showing and embracing that.”

Hurcum joins Oklahoma state Rep. Mauree Turner, the first out non-binary person ever elected to a U.S. state House, as the only known out non-binary persons to hold political office. Turner was elected to the Oklahoma state House of Representatives in 2020.

Non-binary Mayor: Previously on Towleroad

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Cops banned from New York City Pride until 2025 ‘to acknowledge their harm’ to the community

New York City Pride has banned police from the parade and associated events until 2025 to challenge them to “acknowledge their harm” to the LGBT+ community. Effective immediately, the New York Police Department will be asked to stay at least one block away from all Pride events, organisers announced on Saturday…

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Arthur fans asked to wish Mr Ratburn and his husband happy anniversary. Things got weird

Fans of the beloved children’s TV show Arthur were asked to wish Mr Ratburn and his husband a happy second wedding anniversary, and the responses are wild. Arthur, which is a Canadian-American animated TV series for children, premiered in 1996 and has run for 24 seasons. The PBS Kids show surprised fans in 2019 after…

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Arthur fans asked to wish Mr Ratburn and his husband happy anniversary. Things got weird

Fans of the beloved children’s TV show Arthur were asked to wish Mr Ratburn and his husband a happy second wedding anniversary, and the responses are wild. Arthur, which is a Canadian-American animated TV series for children, premiered in 1996 and has run for 24 seasons. The PBS Kids show surprised fans in 2019 after…

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Samira Wiley Reveals Inspiration Behind Name For Newborn Daughter George

“The Handmaid’s Tale” actor said some people were “very confused” about the name choice.

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Billie Holiday star Andra Day opens up about porn and sex addiction

Andra Day revealed that playing Billie Holiday helped her find strength after battling porn and sex addiction. The singer and actor garnered high praise and a Golden Globe for her performance in The United States vs Billie Holiday. The 2021 film depicts Holiday’s rise to fame in the jazz world, addiction, arrest and…

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New designs unveiled for Marsha P Johnson State Park after controversial plans ditched

The brand new design for the Marsha P Johnson State Park has been unveiled after initial plans were scrapped following complaints from the trans hero’s own family. New York governor Andrew Cuomo announced last year that Brooklyn’s East River State Park would be renamed for Johnson, making it “the first state…

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